Um prato feito às críticas: análises bourdieusianas das críticas gastronômicas e seus efeitos

Abstract

By observing the social aspect of Brazil, it is possible to verify the existence of a structure divided into classes. In the same country, a movement has emerged recently of establishments that call themselves “gourmet”. The present study intends to understand what such term means, as well as the sudden success of the nomenclature and, what it would represent symbolically in the social alimentary scope, in view of the gastronomic reviews. These factors, added to the food and the double meaning it takes (primary just for subsistence and second the modern confirmation of social status), becomes pertinent to the question of the hierarchical structure formed in this field and its breadth, as well as the role of gastronomic reviews in this fight. Given this question, from a sociological perspective, it is of utmost importance to put into question the symbolic value of food, and how it can gain different meanings and different dimensions, all depending on the referential, the field. Thus, with this great demand for the field, resulting in its internal valuation, the desire for more influence in the sector is latent with regard to occupying prominent places in relation to the others. Thus, the focus of this research is on those who appear in the active center of gastronomy, that is, the people who, according to Bourdieu, are part of the field of gastronomy, in order to enable an analysis of the points in which eventual and field conflicts inevitably needed. It also intends to analyze how this dialogues with the social status of the subject in the field and if the gastronomic review is purely critical or if it is fundamental for the perpetuation of this status and acting as something capable of attributing power. Based on this premise, the most appropriate method for conducting the research will be the bourdieusian interrelationship, from which the study will focus on the whole of the environment and the element, that is, the relationship between individual and “field” "capital" and "habitus". Only in this way will it be possible to give the well-deserved focus to the gastronomic critic in the middle, giving the necessary attention to his role in the middle, and ultimately checking to what extent he would not fulfill a burden of perpetuating the positioning of a specific dominant from camp. Through a bibliographical research, the current scenario will be analyzed, as well as historical and social factors, in order to identify possible points where there is or not, the causal link between the chefs performance, with the gastronomic reviews, in a way to understand the gastronomic reviews, its aspects and influences in the field of gastronomy.